SV Pegasus
SV Pegasus
SV Pegasus
VOYAGES
VOYAGES
All our knowledge has its
foundation in our senses.

-- Leonardo da Vinci
Trivulzio Codex fol. 20v.

It is only by risking our persons from one hour to another that we live at all. And often enough our faith beforehand in an uncertified result is the only thing that makes the result come true.
-- William James

 SAN CARLOS TO LA PAZ 2006
 SAN CARLOS TO LA PAZ 2007
 LA PAZ TO SAN CARLOS 2008
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OUR
MAIDEN
VOYAGE
OUR
MAIDEN
VOYAGE
OUR
MAIDEN
VOYAGE
  San Carlos
to La Paz 2006
  San Carlos
to La Paz 2006
  San Carlos
to La Paz 2006
Baja sea voyage 2006
On the Northern Crossing

• San Carlos to Santa Rosalia
• Santa Rosalia to Los Pilares
• Los Pilares to Punta Pulpito
• Punta Pulpito to San Juanico
• San Juanico to Puerto Escondido
• Puerto Escondido to Agua Verde
• Agua Verde to Evaristo
• Evaristo to Caleta Partida
• Caleta Partida to La Paz

December 9, 2006 to January 5, 2007
During a month-long cruise we had only 8 days and 1 night of sailing; the rest of the time we spent hiding from the Northers and the water buffalos.

We took the Northern Crossing overnight, leaving San Carlos about 3:00 in the afternoon, arriving Santa Rosalia at 9:00 the next morning.

The crossing is about 75 miles, and we were able to see the Three Virgins volcanos, just north of Santa Rosalia, by sundown.

We were set a mile or so south of our intended course by current in the night, but came back up.

Shortly after sunrise we were greeted by whales off Santa Rosalia.

Apart from close encounters with a small hammerhead shark, a dimly lit ketch, the Guyamas ferry and those whales, it was an uneventful crossing.Approaching Santa Rosalia Harbor from the east Click for full size picture of Tres Virgines (132 Kbytes)

IMPRESSIONS

Click for Judy and Chen by the BoleocomotiveSANTA ROSALIA
December, 2006

Wreck at the waterfront Stacks


A wreck, a ruin, a French dream of the wild American west, turned over to the unsuspecting Mexicans. Wrecks on the waterfront, and pangas, pangas everywhere.

Wooden houses with quaint, second floor balconies around, right out of 19th century New Orleans. Gable fronted business premises with little, quarter light windows, right out of old Abilene or Tombstone.

Tipple Pegasus at Marina Santa Rosalia

Santa BarbaraIn the middle of town, an old iron church, fresh with prayer.
• Don Bain's panorama of the Santa Barbara church


Stack Birds

Industrial ruins populated by birds. White Egrets on a coal tipple. Cormorants on the stacks of the Baja's first electric power plant, Pigeons on the remains of depots, now the marina office.


Marina Santa Rosalia Oficina

MOVING SOUTH

December, 2006 to January, 2007


Storm San Juanico with Shadowfax After waiting out a cold Norther in Santa Rosalia for a week, we headed south, outside San Marcos Island, down to Los Pilares on the Concepción Peninsula where we were greeted by a curious sea lion but passed an uncomfortable night. The next day we saw lots of dolphin on our way south to Punta Pulpito.
John broached the dinghy in the surf taking the dog ashore at Punta Pulpito, landed on a big rock and bruised his back so badly he still couldn't walk right 7 months later. Dog was fine, thought it was fun. Prudential Rock at San Juanico

We passed another uncomfortable night at Punta Pulpito and then made our way down to San Juanico, where we anchored in the company of Shadowfax, and waited out another week's worth of Northers.A raft of Grebes

San Juanico hosts a population of Grebes, little sea ducks that swim about, dive, and resurface all together like a synchronized bird team.

Merry Xmas

We observed the Winter Solstice at San Juanico, then went down to Puerto Escondido on Boxing Day, where we stayed for another week, celebrating our wedding anniversary, resting, resupplying, and waiting out some heavy weather from the west. The wind blew almost 40 one night, pushing us over our mooring, fouling the rode behind the wing on our keel. Fortunately we had tied a safety line to the mooring ball, and were able to cast off the mooring rode, clear the ball, and re-moor to it, all in the middle of the night, in a high wind, twice.


Escondido We think Puerto Escondido is one of the prettiest places on the Baja, the mountains are spectacular, the mooring basins are well protected, and the people are lovely. Too bad about the management, Singlar's best efforts are being confounded by some mysterious local force which makes money and service disappear.

We saw our first mangroves at Escondido, a sign that we're in warmer waters.
One of the Windows at Escondido Shadowfax enroute to Evaristo We departed Puerto Escondido January 1st and hopped down to Aqua Verde, where we spent another uncomfortable night, then we moved on down to Evaristo, again in company with Shadowfax.

At Evaristo we had our first comfortable night on the anchor, we were back in familiar waters after 10 years; we had visited Evaristo in 1996 on a (choke) Moorings charter out of La Paz.


The next morning we moved on to Caleta Partida, where we lingered a couple of days, finally making it into La Paz January 5th. Captain rows the dog ashore,Caleta Partida
Relaxing at Marina Palmira It was a long month coming down, and we started to learn about waves, anchorages and windy weather, but we found our way safely and arrived happy. How we found our way

  +  
N 24° 6'
W 110° 12'


Voyages
  THE RUN
    NORTH
  THE RUN
    NORTH
  THE RUN
    NORTH
  La Paz to
San Carlos 2007
  La Paz to
San Carlos 2007
  La Paz to
San Carlos 2007
Baja sea voyage 2007
Relaxed at Isla San Francisco • La Paz to Balandra
• Balandra to Caleta Partida
• Caleta Partida to Isla San Francisco
• Isla San Francisco to Punta Evaristo
• Punta Evaristo to El Gato
• El Gato to Agua Verde
• Agua Verde to Puerto Escondido
• Puerto Escondido to San Juanico
• San Juanico to San Carlos

May 7 to May 29, 2007


Y - Yankee: I am dragging my anchor
Our first night out was at Bahia Balandra, Schooner Bay, the bay of the balanced rock. Ten years ago we had to set a second anchor there, late at night, from the dinghy on our Moorings boat. More excitement than I needed this time, but the corumuel blew and we dragged about 400 feet during the night, away from Cambria; we let out more scope at about 0400 and held. In the morning, Michael called us on the radio from Cambria and asked, "Was it something we said? If you thought we were anchored too close we would have moved."
Ha ha, we won't be leaving the hook out at only 5:1 scope again.


Caleta Partida

CALETA PARTIDA

Judy took her first salt water bath of the season in Caleta Partida, even though the water was still in the low to mid '70s - chilly and refreshing.

Caleta Partida The Caleta Partida is a popular spot with the Moorings boats so we had company there, but we didn't see anyone we knew except Cambria; we must be following those people.



from Chart 21014S0: Cabo San Lazaro To Cabo San Lucas

 
ISLA SAN FRANCISCO

After a couple of peaceful days at Caleta Partida we headed north again, across the channel between Isla Partida and Isla San Jose, and into the Hook at Isla San Francisco.

We were greeted by bees in search of fresh water, but they left after a short visit.The water here was the clearest of all the anchorages on this trip. Magic Puffers

We stayed 3 days, the puffer fish crowded around the boat and played with Roger the Rubber Ducky.

Judy dangled her feet off the stern platform and those magic fish kissed her toes. Another visitor at Isla San Francisco

Back at San Francisco after 10 years.



EL GATO

May 16
After an overnight stop in the small bay north of Punta Evaristo we moved on, up the San Jose Channel to El Gato.
El Gato El Gato
Sunset at El Gato These photos don't capture the beauty of this place, the sandstone formations behind the beaches are very colorful.


El Gato's entrepreneurial fisherman brought us 2 great lobsters, for which we traded a little money and some double-A batteries.
A delightful dinner in a peaceful place.
We stayed here 2 days.



The beach at Agua verde Departing Agua Verde

AGUA VERDE


Our next stop was at Agua Verde, after avoiding the San Marcial reef off El Gato and the San Marte Reef outside Agua Verde we anchored off the beach. The East Bight was prettier but too crowded for our skill level. Cambria came for a dinghy visit in the morning, on their way to the village for the local goat cheese.

We departed Agua Verde later in the morning, passing between the point and Roca Solitair.

Roca Solitair is big and close.
MOUSE ME TO SEE  ⇒  



PUERTO ESCONDIDO

A boy and his dogMay 19
Puerto Escondido is even more beautiful in warm weather. Puerto Escondido sunset

We enjoyed the Sunday brunch at the Hidden Port Yacht Club, and lunched at the Tripui Hotel several times. Tripui is the only nearby place to get an internet connection, although we heard that you can hit the Juancalito gateway if you climb the hill on the north side of Escondido. Judy took a ride into Loreto one day, the streets were all dug up for some reason.

The Tripui store went out of business the last day we were there; the young couple who ran it were not happy about it, their electricity had been cut off, apparently by the property owner.



SAN JUANICO

Grebes raft up May 25
We made the long run up to San Juanico from Puerto Escondido safely, but we fouled our dinghy painter in the prop as we tried to anchor. We got the anchor set, dove in and cleared the prop; all good practice, and we certainly won't make that mistake again.

The Grebes were still rafting up here, and we stayed for a few days.



A NIGHT CROSSING

... and a star to steer by Our vessel insurance policy requires that we be north of 27°N after June 1, and our dawdling found us still in San Juanico May 28, so we decided to make the crossing from there.

It is 90 miles due north from San Juanico to San Carlos; we departed San Juanico late in the afternoon, headed north, and after it got dark we just followed the north star.



  +  
N 27° 30'
W 111°

SAN CARLOS, SONORA

A night heron

 
We entered Marina Real early in the morning of May 29
and fetched up in our old slip on Dock 12.

on Dock 12
We will stay in San Carlos for the summer and fall; we plan to head back south again in November.


Voyages
San Carlos to La Paz
  SAN CARLOS
    TO LA PAZ
  SAN CARLOS
    TO LA PAZ
  SAN CARLOS
    TO LA PAZ
December 2007 -
January 2008
December 2007 -
January 2008
December 2007 -
January 2008
• San Carlos to San Juanico
• San Juanico to Escondido
• Escondido to El Gato
• El Gato to Evaristo
• Evaristo to Caleta Partida
• Caleta Partida to La Paz
 

San Juanico from Google Earth

We left from San Carlos at 5:00 PM December 5th, and set course due south to San Juanico. We kept radio company most of the night with Vagari, who was going down to Matzatlan, and with Amiga, who was headed for Evaristo.


Prudential Rock After a dark but uneventful night crossing we arrived at San Juanico about 9:00 AM December 6th and anchored in between Moon Rocks and Prudential Rock in the same spot we occupied a year ago.

Judy in the water halfway back from Moon Rocks

The anchorage was a bit rolly so we deployed the flopper stopper; even so, the first night was not entirely comfortable. Things settled down a bit after that and we relaxed for a couple of days.

Judy tried out her new wetsuit and snorkel, swimming about on Moon Rocks, that's her on the right, halfway back from Moon Rocks.


Chen looks for fish Chen doesn't need a wetsuit.

Pegasus at San Juanico, flopper stopper deployed from the boom
December 9th we cleared San Juanico and proceeded south to Puerto Escondido.

Glories off Loreto, Puerto Escondido in the distance

We could see the clouds of a 'pineapple express' blowing over the Sierra la Giganta behind Puerto Escondido; the weather was going to change.

The picture to the left looks almost due south toward Puerto Escondido, the enormous, 7,000 foot mountains in the background, the low hills and the 'windows' on the anchorage.


  +  
N 25° 50'
W 111° 19'

 

PUERTO ESCONDIDO
HIDDEN, REMOTE, DESERTED


In the mooring field at Escondido
Early in the morning of our first day here we heard a scrabbling on deck; it was a seagull, it flew away but left a small flounder which Judy returned to the sea - it swam away. We spent a week and a half on mooring ball number 111; the weather was fairly windy, but then the northers really started to blow…
Red sky in the morning
… after a couple of days in 20 knot winds we took advantage of a relatively calm morning and moved onto the Singlar docks. We'd been having a bit of trouble with the dinghy outboard; I'd let the carburettor clog up over the summer so it was running too lean, then I whanged the prop on a rock in Martini Cove, and so tying up to the dock let us get conveniently ashore for dog walks, showers, internet email & weather, visits to the Hidden Port Yacht Club library, games and lunches at Tripui, and rides into Loreto.
Colorful Loreto Diane and Ward from SV Footloose

Diane and Ward, from the Sailing Vessel Footloose, with one of their two pugs at Cesar's Tacos, Loreto.


Loreto Mission
Posada de las Flores Loreto

Some 13 miles up the coast, north from Puerto Escondido, Loreto is the oldest town on the Baja. The Jesuit Mission at Loreto dates from 1697.


   
For some reason a taxi ride into Loreto & back from Puerto Escondido costs an exorbitant USD$75; the shopping is good, but not that good. It is legal to share a cab but gringos who give each other rides in their own vehicles run the risk of fines from the taxi police; the gringos still do it though.
Season's greetings
Pegasus at the Singlar Marina, Puerto Escondido

We sat on the dock for another 2 weeks, observing the wind, the winter solstice, Christmas Day, Boxing Day, our nineteenth wedding anniversary, and New Year's.

HPYC
 The Hidden Port Yacht Club: picturesque, mysterious.

The weather forecast for December 22nd. called for NNW winds blowing 22 to 30 knots. It blew so hard that by 11:00 AM our dinghy was shipping water and we had to pull it out onto the dock. The canvas cover was starting to tear and one of the oars had fetched away. Our oar showed up behind the motor yacht Altamar across the dock from us, three hours later. Captain Bones fished it out and returned it, thanks, Captain.


Tripui is about a kilometer inland from Escondido

The poor weather continued for days, we stayed in Escondido for almost a month. We'd walk out to Tripui and Judy would entertain herself by playing dominos and cards with the locals. We are learning to be patient… The Inn at Tripui

The little hotel and restaurant
at Tripui are lovely.

There used to be a small groceria - a tienda - at Tripui, originally operated by the now dead Willy, the store was run by a young couple until last May, when they were evicted. The closest store now is down Highway 1 about 10 kilometers at Luiui <lee-wee>. They just got electricity at Luiui, in December.


January 3, 2008
We get a decent weather window and set off to the south. We passed the next night at El Gato, where we rocked & rolled all night long; not comfortable. Pressing on the next day we made Evaristo; as we turned in to the little bay there the wind blew up from the north pretty ferociously, gusting over 25 Kt and sending the buffalo running outside. We spent a comfortable night at Evaristo and pressed on to Caleta Partida, arriving there on January 5th. where we spent another comfortable night in company with 11 other boats.
Caleta Partida, Chen is not impressed

The morning of January 6th. was windy, from the west, which set a swell running into the anchorage, so we pulled up the hook and beat our way outside. We spent the next 3 hours in a washing machine but made good time to the south. Things calmed down once we crossed the San Lorenzo Channel just north of La Paz.

Crossing San Lorenzo
We arrived at Marina Palmira La Paz early in the afternoon and got into a slip on 3 dock - a promotion! We'll be here through March repairing & repainting the mast and rerigging the boat. … more later.
  +  
N 24° 6'
W 110° 12'

Voyages
WILDLIFE OBSERVATIONS

December 5, 2007
 A ray jumped behind us as we left Bahia Algodones.

December 7, 2007
 The ospreys are still nesting on Moon Rocks at San Juanico.

December 9, 2007
 A whale blowing as we came down toward Escondido.

December 10, 2007
 The flounder incident at Escondido.

January 3, 2008
 A whale breaching all around a sport fisher off the south
  end of Danzante.
 Passed through a nice pod of dolphin having lunch.

January 4, 2008
 Passed through a very large group of dolphin having
  lunch off La Habana, dozens and dozens spread out
  over a couple of miles at the north end
  of the San Jose channel.

January 5, 2008
 We thought we saw a shark leaving Evaristo but it was a grebe;
  there were hundreds of grebes between Evaristo
  and San Francisco.
 Saw an eel jump. Well, it was either an eel or a very long, 
  thin fish or a snake.
La Paz to San Carlos
  La Paz to
San Carlos 2008
  La Paz to
San Carlos 2008
  La Paz to
San Carlos 2008
Dinghy underway at Caleta Partida
 
• La Paz to Caleta Partida
• Caleta Partida to Evaristo
• Evaristo to Agua Verde
• Agua Verde to Escondido
• Escondido to San Juanico
• San Juanico to San Carlos
Chen loves big sticks
• We were all ready to depart La Paz
after 4 months, heading north.

• Our first night out we anchored
in Caleta Partida again.


La Caleta Partida Caleta Partida from Google Earth The exit from Caleta Partida

 • The next morning we were making good speed to Evaristo, the wind was favorable so we hoisted all our sails for once. Later, off Sand Point south of Evaristo we noticed that the dinghy tow line had parted and that the safety line was pulling the dingy sideways so that it swamped. It took a while to get it close enough to board, bail out and reattach a tow line.

 •  Judy showed fine command form, taking charge, leaping into the water-filled dinghy, issuing clear, calm orders and generally putting things aright. Love that girl.

 • The next day, from Evaristo, we made lovely Agua Verde where we anchored in the east bight and stayed for the summer solstice and our third happy anniversary aboard Pegasus. Evenstar and Aristocat were in too, and brought us a Trigger Fish fresh from the sea.

• Otto had been acting up on the run from Evaristo so we jiggled his wires and connectors into working order.

The view from the cockpit Evenstar at Agua Verde
Sundown, Escondido, Sierras Gigantes

 • On to spectacular Escondido, Otto still not steering well,
but the weather was fine and we didn't mind hand steering for a while.

ESCONDIDO
And now the sun goes
  down to earth
Our friend the night
  will soon give birth
To the stars, and peace
  and quiet again


• We stayed at Escondido for 4 days; there had been no fuel there for 2 weeks but a delivery on the 24th allowed us to fill our tank and cans, so on to San Juanico. After a couple of days preparing for the crossing and checking the weather we departed San Juanico at 7:30 on the evening of the 27th, bound for San Carlos.


San Juanico Stormy Sea

• We had our worst ever crossing, contrary to forecasts the seas came up in the night, although the sky was clear we could see lightning over to the east, and an easterly wind chopped the swells all about. Our brand new Furuno radar assured us that there was no awful weather within 24 miles, so the lightning we saw all night must have been on the mainland. Otto quit for good and we hand steered, an hour on , an hour off, all night.

By the time we raised Guaymas next morning we were steering to the swell, in 20 minute shifts, tacking every half hour. Pegasus handled the seas with aplomb, it was just a matter of finding the least uncomfortable point, hanging on, and steering, steering, steering.

 • We arrived at Marina Real in San Carlos at 1:30 in the afternoon after covering one hundred and three nautical miles in 18 hours.

Voyages