It is only by risking our persons from one hour to another that we live
at all. And often enough our faith beforehand in an uncertified result
is the only thing that makes the result come true.
-- William James


December 9, 2006 to January 5, 2007
During a month-long cruise we had only 8 days and 1 night of sailing; the rest of the time we spent hiding from the Northers and the water buffalos.
We took the Northern Crossing overnight, leaving San Carlos about 3:00 in the afternoon, arriving Santa Rosalia at 9:00 the next morning.
The crossing is about 75 miles, and we were able to see the Three Virgins volcanos, just north of Santa Rosalia, by sundown.
We were set a mile or so south of our intended course by current in the night, but came back up.
Shortly after sunrise we were greeted by whales off Santa Rosalia.
Apart from close encounters with a small hammerhead shark, a dimly lit ketch, the Guyamas ferry and those whales, it was an uneventful crossing.

SANTA ROSALIA
A wreck, a ruin, a French dream of the wild American west, turned over to the unsuspecting Mexicans. Wrecks on the waterfront, and pangas, pangas everywhere.
Wooden houses with quaint, second floor balconies around, right out of 19th century New Orleans. Gable fronted business premises with little, quarter light windows, right out of old Abilene or Tombstone.
In the middle of town, an old iron church, fresh with prayer.
• Don Bain's panorama of the Santa Barbara church
Industrial ruins populated by birds. White Egrets on a coal tipple. Cormorants on the stacks of the Baja's first electric power plant, Pigeons on the remains of depots, now the marina office.
MOVING SOUTH
December, 2006 to January, 2007
After waiting out a cold Norther in Santa Rosalia for a week, we headed south, outside San Marcos Island, down to Los Pilares on the Concepción Peninsula where we were greeted by a curious sea lion but passed an uncomfortable night. The next day we saw lots of dolphin on our way south to Punta Pulpito.
We passed another uncomfortable night at Punta Pulpito and then made our way down to San Juanico, where we anchored in the company of Shadowfax, and waited out another week's worth of Northers.
San Juanico hosts a population of Grebes, little sea ducks that swim about, dive, and resurface all together like a synchronized bird team.

We observed the Winter Solstice at San Juanico, then went down to Puerto Escondido on Boxing Day, where we stayed for another week, celebrating our wedding anniversary, resting, resupplying, and waiting out some heavy weather from the west. The wind blew almost 40 one night, pushing us over our mooring, fouling the rode behind the wing on our keel. Fortunately we had tied a safety line to the mooring ball, and were able to cast off the mooring rode, clear the ball, and re-moor to it, all in the middle of the night, in a high wind, twice.
We think Puerto Escondido is one of the prettiest places on the Baja, the mountains are spectacular, the mooring basins are well protected, and the people are lovely. Too bad about the management, Singlar's best efforts are being confounded by some mysterious local force which makes money and service disappear.
We saw our first mangroves at Escondido, a sign that we're in warmer waters.
We departed Puerto Escondido January 1st and hopped down to Aqua Verde, where we spent another uncomfortable night, then we moved on down to Evaristo, again in company with Shadowfax.
At Evaristo we had our first comfortable night on the anchor, we were back in familiar waters after 10 years; we had visited Evaristo in 1996 on a (choke) Moorings charter out of La Paz.
The next morning we moved on to Caleta Partida, where we lingered a couple of days, finally making it into La Paz January 5th.
It was a long month coming down, and we started to learn about waves, anchorages and windy weather, but we found our way safely and arrived happy.
• La Paz to BalandraMay 7 to May 29, 2007
Our first night out was at Bahia Balandra, Schooner Bay, the bay of the balanced rock. Ten years ago we had to set a second anchor there, late at night, from the dinghy on our Moorings boat. More excitement than I needed this time, but the corumuel blew and we dragged about 400 feet during the night, away from Cambria; we let out more scope at about 0400 and held. In the morning, Michael called us on the radio from Cambria and asked, "Was it something we said? If you thought we were anchored too close we would have moved."
Ha ha, we won't be leaving the hook out at only 5:1 scope again.
Judy took her first salt water bath of the season in Caleta Partida, even though the water was still in the low to mid '70s - chilly and refreshing.
The Caleta Partida is a popular spot with the Moorings boats so we had company there, but we didn't see anyone we knew except Cambria; we must be following those people.

After a couple of peaceful days at Caleta Partida we headed north again, across the channel between Isla Partida and Isla San Jose, and into the Hook at Isla San Francisco.
We were greeted by bees in search of fresh water, but they left after a short visit.The water here was the clearest of all the anchorages on this trip.
We stayed 3 days, the puffer fish crowded around the boat and played with Roger the Rubber Ducky.
Judy dangled her feet off the stern platform and those magic fish kissed her toes.

Back at San Francisco after 10 years.
May 16
After an overnight stop in the small bay north of Punta Evaristo we moved on, up the San Jose Channel to El Gato.
These photos don't capture the beauty of this place, the sandstone formations behind the beaches are very colorful.
El Gato's entrepreneurial fisherman brought us 2 great lobsters, for which we traded a little money and some double-A batteries.
A delightful dinner in a peaceful place.
We stayed here 2 days.
We departed Agua Verde later in the morning, passing between the point and Roca Solitair.
Roca Solitair is big and close.
MOUSE ME TO SEE ⇒
May 19
We enjoyed the Sunday brunch at the Hidden Port Yacht Club, and lunched at the Tripui Hotel several times. Tripui is the only nearby place to get an internet connection, although we heard that you can hit the Juancalito gateway if you climb the hill on the north side of Escondido. Judy took a ride into Loreto one day, the streets were all dug up for some reason.
The Tripui store went out of business the last day we were there; the young couple who ran it were not happy about it, their electricity had been cut off, apparently by the property owner.
May 25The Grebes were still rafting up here, and we stayed for a few days.
Our vessel insurance policy requires that we be north of 27°N after June 1, and our dawdling found us still in San Juanico May 28, so we decided to make the crossing from there.
It is 90 miles due north from San Juanico to San Carlos; we departed San Juanico late in the afternoon, headed north, and after it got dark we just followed the north star.
We entered Marina Real early in the morning of May 29
and fetched up in our old slip on Dock 12.

We will stay in San Carlos for the summer and fall; we plan to head back south again in November.
We left from San Carlos at 5:00 PM December 5th, and set course due south to San Juanico. We kept radio company most of the night with Vagari, who was going down to Matzatlan, and with Amiga, who was headed for Evaristo.
After a dark but uneventful night crossing we arrived at San Juanico about 9:00 AM December 6th and anchored in between Moon Rocks and Prudential Rock in the same spot we occupied a year ago.
The anchorage was a bit rolly so we deployed the flopper stopper; even so, the first night was not entirely comfortable. Things settled down a bit after that and we relaxed for a couple of days.
Judy tried out her new wetsuit and snorkel, swimming about on Moon Rocks, that's her on the right, halfway back from Moon Rocks.
Chen doesn't need a wetsuit.
December 9th we cleared San Juanico and proceeded south to Puerto Escondido.

We could see the clouds of a 'pineapple express' blowing over the Sierra la Giganta behind Puerto Escondido; the weather was going to change.
The picture to the left looks almost due south toward Puerto Escondido, the enormous, 7,000 foot mountains in the background, the low hills and the 'windows' on the anchorage.
PUERTO ESCONDIDO
HIDDEN, REMOTE, DESERTED

Diane and Ward, from the Sailing Vessel Footloose, with one of their two pugs at Cesar's Tacos, Loreto.
Some 13 miles up the coast, north from Puerto Escondido, Loreto is the oldest town on the Baja. The Jesuit Mission at Loreto dates from 1697.

We sat on the dock for another 2 weeks, observing the wind, the winter solstice, Christmas Day, Boxing Day, our nineteenth wedding anniversary, and New Year's.
The weather forecast for December 22nd. called for NNW winds blowing 22 to 30 knots. It blew so hard that by 11:00 AM our dinghy was shipping water and we had to pull it out onto the dock. The canvas cover was starting to tear and one of the oars had fetched away. Our oar showed up behind the motor yacht Altamar across the dock from us, three hours later. Captain Bones fished it out and returned it, thanks, Captain.
The poor weather continued for days, we stayed in Escondido for almost a month. We'd walk out to Tripui and Judy would entertain herself by playing dominos and cards with the locals. We are learning to be patient…

The little hotel and restaurant
at Tripui are lovely.
There used to be a small groceria - a tienda - at Tripui, originally operated by the now dead Willy, the store was run by a young couple until last May, when they were evicted. The closest store now is down Highway 1 about 10 kilometers at Luiui <lee-wee>. They just got electricity at Luiui, in December.
The morning of January 6th. was windy, from the west, which set a swell running into the anchorage, so we pulled up the hook and beat our way outside. We spent the next 3 hours in a washing machine but made good time to the south. Things calmed down once we crossed the San Lorenzo Channel just north of La Paz.

WILDLIFE OBSERVATIONS December 5, 2007 A ray jumped behind us as we left Bahia Algodones. December 7, 2007 The ospreys are still nesting on Moon Rocks at San Juanico. December 9, 2007 A whale blowing as we came down toward Escondido. December 10, 2007 The flounder incident at Escondido. January 3, 2008 A whale breaching all around a sport fisher off the south end of Danzante. Passed through a nice pod of dolphin having lunch. January 4, 2008 Passed through a very large group of dolphin having lunch off La Habana, dozens and dozens spread out over a couple of miles at the north end of the San Jose channel. January 5, 2008 We thought we saw a shark leaving Evaristo but it was a grebe; there were hundreds of grebes between Evaristo and San Francisco. Saw an eel jump. Well, it was either an eel or a very long, thin fish or a snake.

• Our first night out we anchored
in Caleta Partida again.

• The next morning we were making good speed to Evaristo, the wind was favorable so we hoisted all our sails for once. Later, off Sand Point south of Evaristo we noticed that the dinghy tow line had parted and that the safety line was pulling the dingy sideways so that it swamped. It took a while to get it close enough to board, bail out and reattach a tow line.
• Judy showed fine command form, taking charge, leaping into the water-filled dinghy, issuing clear, calm orders and generally putting things aright. Love that girl.
• The next day, from Evaristo, we made lovely Agua Verde where we anchored in the east bight and stayed for the summer solstice and our third happy anniversary aboard Pegasus. Evenstar and Aristocat were in too, and brought us a Trigger Fish fresh from the sea.
• Otto had been acting up on the run from Evaristo so we jiggled his wires and connectors into working order.
• On to spectacular Escondido, Otto still not steering well,
but the weather was fine and we didn't mind hand steering for a while.
ESCONDIDO
And now the sun goes
down to earth
Our friend the night
will soon give birth
To the stars, and peace
and quiet again
• We stayed at Escondido for 4 days; there had been no fuel there for 2 weeks but a delivery on the 24th allowed us to fill our tank and cans, so on to San Juanico. After a couple of days preparing for the crossing and checking the weather we departed San Juanico at 7:30 on the evening of the 27th, bound for San Carlos.
• We had our worst ever crossing, contrary to forecasts the seas came up in the night, although the sky was clear we could see lightning over to the east, and an easterly wind chopped the swells all about. Our brand new Furuno radar assured us that there was no awful weather within 24 miles, so the lightning we saw all night must have been on the mainland. Otto quit for good and we hand steered, an hour on , an hour off, all night.
By the time we raised Guaymas next morning we were steering to the swell, in 20 minute shifts, tacking every half hour. Pegasus handled the seas with aplomb, it was just a matter of finding the least uncomfortable point, hanging on, and steering, steering, steering.
• We arrived at Marina Real in San Carlos at 1:30 in the afternoon after covering one hundred and three nautical miles in 18 hours.