• San Carlos to Santa RosaliaDecember 9, 2006 to January 5, 2007
During a month-long cruise we had only 8 days and 1 night of sailing; the rest of the time we spent hiding from the Northers and the water buffalos.
We took the Northern Crossing overnight, leaving San Carlos about 3:00 in the afternoon, arriving Santa Rosalia at 9:00 the next morning.
The crossing is about 75 miles, and we were able to see the Three Virgins volcanos, just north of Santa Rosalia, by sundown.
We were set a mile or so south of our intended course by current in the night, but came back up.
Shortly after sunrise we were greeted by whales off Santa Rosalia.
Apart from close encounters with a dimly lit ketch and the Guyamas ferry, and those whales, it was an uneventful crossing.

SANTA ROSALIA
A wreck, a ruin, a French dream of the wild American west, turned over to the unsuspecting Mexicans. Wrecks on the waterfront, and pangas, pangas everywhere.
Wooden houses with quaint, second floor balconies around, right out of 19th century New Orleans. Gable fronted business premises with little, quarter light windows, right out of old Abilene or Tombstone.
In the middle of town, an old iron church, fresh with prayer.
• Don Bain's panorama of the Santa Barbara church
Industrial ruins populated by birds. White Egrets on a coal tipple. Cormorants on the stacks of the Baja's first electric power plant, Pigeons on the remains of depots, now the marina office.
MOVING SOUTH
December, 2006 to January, 2007
After waiting out a cold Norther in Santa Rosalia for a week, we headed south, outside San Marcos Island, down to Los Pilares on the Concepcion Peninsula where we were greeted by a curious sea lion but passed an uncomfortable night. The next day we saw lots of dolphin on our way south to Punta Pulpito.
We passed another uncomfortable night at Punta Pulpito and then made our way down to San Juanico, where we anchored in the company of Shadowfax, and waited out another week's worth of Northers.
San Juanico hosts a population of Grebes, little sea ducks that swim about, dive, and resurface all together like a synchronized bird team.

We observed the Winter Solstice at San Juanico, then went down to Puerto Escondido on Boxing Day, where we stayed for another week, celebrating our wedding anniversary, resting, resupplying, and waiting out some heavy weather from the west. The wind blew almost 40 one night, pushing us over our mooring, fouling the rode behind the wing on our keel. Fortunately we had tied a safety line to the mooring ball, and were able to cast off the mooring rode, clear the ball, and re-moor to it, all in the middle of the night, in a high wind, twice.
We think Puerto Escondido is one of the prettiest places on the Baja, the mountains are spectacular, the mooring basins are well protected, and the people are lovely. Too bad about the management, Singlar's best efforts are being confounded by some mysterious local force which makes money and service disappear.
We saw our first mangroves at Escondido, a sign that we're in warmer waters.
We departed Puerto Escondido January 1st and hopped down to Aqua Verde, where we spent another uncomfortable night, then we moved on down to Evaristo, again in company with Shadowfax.
At Evaristo we had our first comfortable night on the anchor, we were back in familiar waters after 10 years; we had visited Evaristo in 1996 on a (choke) Moorings charter out of La Paz.
The next morning we moved on to Caleta Partida, where we lingered a couple of days, finally making it into La Paz January 5th.
It was a long month coming down, and we started to learn about waves, anchorages and windy weather, but we found our way safely and arrived happy.
SV Pegasus Home
La Paz
The Run North